Accepting essential orders - here's how. Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments. My power supply is Lithium Ion Polymer Battery - 3.
Can anyone help-me about "Adafruit Feather Huzzah esp" current consume? Is it 6,5mA current consume in deep sleep? Is it right? Thank you guys. Bests Diogo. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. The ESP doesn't have any control over those, and they weren't designed for low-power operation.
I didn't imagine that other components consumed many current. I will study this timer component. Bests, Diogo. Based on what you suggested in the previous comment, Adafruit TPL Power Timer seems to be the component that help me to reduce the power consumption of my circuit. But my concern is, is it possible to reduce the power consumption to 60uA or below as I wish to prolong my battery life to up to at least one year.
I am currently using a Li-Po rechargeable battery with 3. Please advise and I am looking forward to receiving your favorable reply soon. Thank you in advance. The longer you want a battery to last, the more low-order terms you have to deal with though. All batteries have a self-discharge rate, and all battery chemistries are sensitive to changes in temperature. You'll also have to control things like parasitic current across the surface of the PCB through adsorbed humidity, and literal charge evaporation from airflow blowing electrons away from the battery contacts.
The best I can say is that the TPL shouldn't be a major source of energy loss above 1mAh per year. Unfortunately I didn't have a equipment to measure real power consume, but it's very low, you can see in the picture below.
I am thinking about getting a few of these as well to solve my issue. For example, let's say that I have the TPL set to every hour but I also know that I need to either upload new code OR most importantly, charge the battery.
It seems that these would not be possible while the TPL is sleeping the device because everything the Serial chip, the LiPo charger will all be powered off. What is the best way around this so that I can charge or upload ideally without having to open the device up and change around a bunch of wiring or jumpers.Accepting essential orders - here's how.
Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments. Immediate project I've got a latching solenoid, 4. Also have an RPI The larger project: Intending to set up several outdoor stations for automating garden watering scheduling Each station would have between 2 and 5 solenoids The idea is to centrally control the all the stations' solenoids via wi-fi from central system.
I'm hoping to dev the code that controls the schedules for each of the Solenoids. A little familiar with Python. Re: How to control Solenoids with Feather Huzzah by franklin on Sat Apr 13, pm What signals do the solenoids need to latch and unlatch? You might also use the Feather M0 WiFi. Re: How to control Solenoids with Feather Huzzah by Munque on Sat Apr 13, pm franklin wrote: What signals do the solenoids need to latch and unlatch? Re: How to control Solenoids with Feather Huzzah by franklin on Sun Apr 14, am Featherwings will sit on the Feather boards without resorting to using jumpers.
You will need some form of polarity control like a motor controller to provide reversed voltages. Re: How to control Solenoids with Feather Huzzah by Munque on Mon Apr 15, am franklin wrote: Featherwings will sit on the Feather boards without resorting to using jumpers. Re: How to control Solenoids with Feather Huzzah by Munque on Fri Apr 26, am franklin wrote: Featherwings will sit on the Feather boards without resorting to using jumpers. The H-Bridge page says it can "control up to 4 solenoids".
Is that 4 latching or non-latching solenoids? You don't need both. You need to understand the voltage and current requirements to make sure that you choose an H-Bridge that is capable of driving it. However, the solenoid only requires a 50ms pulse, so you should be OK if you keep the pulses short. To control 5 bidirectional solenoids, you would need to have 20 GPIO pins. You can control a whole stack of wings with just 2 pins and each Wing can drive 2 of your solenoids. To connect them, you simply stack them.
No jumper wires are required. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. How would non-latching solenoids change the wiring? Assuming the LD can control 4 non-latching solenoids, would that mean 4 solenoids each controlled independently, or merely 2 pairs of 2, the pairs independent of one another?
For stacking I'm seeing the Stepper FeatherWing.
Are there others I haven't found? Return to General Project help. Show us what you made!This microcontroller contains a Tensilica chip core as well as a full WiFi stack. It also has auto-reset so no noodling with pins and reset button pressings.
The CP has better driver support than the CH and can do very high speeds without stability issues. To make it easy to use for portable projects, there is a connector for any of the Adafruit 3. You don't need a battery, it will run just fine straight from the micro USB connector. But, if you do have a battery, you can take it on the go, then plug in the USB to recharge. The Feather will automatically switch over to USB power when its available.
Here are some handy specs! Measures 2. Headers are included so you can solder it in and plug into a solderless breadboard. Lipoly battery and USB cable not included.
Check out the Adafruit tutorial for all sorts of details, including schematics, files, IDE instructions, power management and more! Important status note : Orders are currently shipping on a reduced schedule. Please see here for more information. Feather is the new development board from Adafruit, and like its namesake it is thin, light, and lets you fly! Feather is designed to be a new standard for portable microcontroller cores.Accepting essential orders - here's how.
Please be positive and constructive with your questions and comments. The two largest components in the project are the Arduino and a 16x2 LCD with backlight. For the final project, I'm planning to remove the Atmega and socket it straight into some protoboard or something.
Questions: 1. Since it will be battery-powered, I was planning to just connect four 1. No regulator or anything. Is this a wise idea?
Am I likely to hit the controller's brownout detection before the batteries are suitably discharged? I've been looking at programming techniques to conserve power sleep modes, PWM for the backlight, etcbut what about hardware based ones? Can the Arduino be set to run at a slower clock speed?
Am I correct in assuming that the 5V Arduino Mini and others like it wouldn't save power at all, just space? Just fishing for ideas at this point. Which won't matter if you're going to put the CPU in your own board.
IoT Weather Station With Adafruit HUZZAH ESP8266 (ESP-12E) and Adafruit IO (UPDATED)
The Pro Mini 3. But slowing down the clock and lowering the Vcc do both cut power: e. You should make sure the LCD will tolerate the lower Vcc before investing too much effort in the project. In that case, the 3. Using a 3. And I couldn't find a 3. Which leaves The best way to slow down the Arduino?
I don't mind having to pick up an 8MHz or slower resonator.Hello, everyone! The waether station measures the temperature in Celsius it could be changed to Fahrenheitthe pressure in PSI - Pounds per square Inch and humidity in percentage.
It also has deep sleep mode that can be controlled, by default is set on 5 minutes. You can see the readings from my weather station herethey are for my home town - Polski Trambesh. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. The DHT11 is a basic, ultra low-cost digital temperature and humidity sensor. It uses a capacitive humidity sensor and a thermistor to measure the surrounding air, and spits out a digital signal on the data pin no analog input pins needed.
Its fairly simple to use, but requires careful timing to grab data. The only real downside of this sensor is you can only get new data from it once every 2 seconds, sensor readings can be up to 2 seconds old. TMP is a super small digital temperature sensor. TWIhas a resolution of 0. This is a very handy sensor that requires a very low-current. There is no on-board voltage regulator, so supplied voltage should be between 1. Filtering capacitors and pull-up resistors are included as shown.
This is a breakout board for the Bosch BMP high-precision, low-power digital barometer. The BMP offers a pressure measuring range of to hPa with an accuracy down to 0. These come factory-calibrated, with the calibration coefficients already stored in ROM. What makes this sensor great is that it is nearly identical to its former rev, the BMP!
Make it with the help of the prototyping board. If you want put a hardware reset button so you can reset the board.
Also add a battery connector so you can power it with a battery like me. I have putted additional headers for more sensors such as anemometer for measuring wind speed, pyranometer for measuring solar radiation, rain gauge for measuring liquid precipitation over a set period of time.
So check this instructable regular for updates. My enclosure is a simple plastic box from nearest store, but you can use another box,a 3D printed, laser cutted or a normal plastic box.
The box should have enough space for the main board, the battery and the sensors. Adafruit IO is giving you the opportunity to connect your device to internet and to read data from sensors or to control it remotely from every point on Earth if you have internet of courseand in this step I will snow you how to set it up.
Go to Adafruit IO and sign up or sign in.How great is this idea and build by cairn4?!
Made with an Adafruit Huzzah Esp and controlled via Telegram bot. Stop breadboarding and soldering — start making immediately!
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Have a question about this project? Sign up for a free GitHub account to open an issue and contact its maintainers and the community. Already on GitHub? Sign in to your account. Since long time I am fighting to lower power consumption using this library to the levels reachable with Sdk examples! I have run several examples, testing the uA level in different type of code.
If we don't use BLE libraries uA are very near to the one expectednormally few uA when we are in low power mode. But if we use BLE consumption get well above 1mA so about times more that expected!
I have used the dual role BLE uart example and these are my findings: -to enter low power mode you have to add delay in the main loopthe longest the milliseconds the lowest the power drain. I think this strange behaviour may only be due to some Serial debug statement present on the BLE libraries.
Thanks pbecchi for raising this issue and share your experience with the power consumption. You are right with your observation, I will throw a bit more detail where I could. I have also wanted to test more with power consumption and write an tutorial for it.
But we are too busy for now with the upcoming nrf, which we will need do low power, so we wait until it comes out to test with. This will serve as notes to ourself to improve it later. Another way to reduce power is to go full event response aka callback and abandon the use of loop with suspendLoop call.
I will take note myself for the tutorial, before I start to forget things. There may be more trick, but I kind of forget, will get back to this when we are done with the nrf :D. The high mA start in the setup function just after startAdv call. I have added a 1 minute delay after that call. When I have a Serial. Without Serial. This behaviour dont shows up with the nrf52 DK board.
Is suspendLoop a way to not start the loop task? I cannot do this since my code is a sprinkler controller and I need to spend few millisecond per minute to do GPIO controls. I can manage to use a delay in my loop that hopefully can reduce consumption to around uA. Yes, suspendLoop will put loop task in suspend and prevent it to execute. If you need it, so just use it if you need it. For the serial issue with power, currently I don't have any ideas why it behaves as such.
Although, I am too busy by now for upcoming nrf to pull out nrf52dk to test this out. I am afraid you have to do it by yourself a little bit more until we release the nrf board. Sorry since I only have 2 hands and 10 fingers :. Thanks, I understand your problems I am also very interested to the nrfsince I am getting my first bt end of this week! Low power is mostly software thing hw is often too obvious and spotted out soon enough.